Hot off the Food & Wine Press

To say I am ecstatic that Marx Foods is featured in the July issue of Food & Wine magazine doesn’t cover it. After a few phone interviews with Kristin Donnelly and staging an elaborate photo shoot to submit images for the article (like the one below), all we could do was wait eagerly to see what would happen…

Then came the ecstatic/delirious/downright giddy part.

Kristin sent me a copy of the issue and I gave it to all of my staff to read immediately. I couldn’t be more humbled and honored by what Kristin and the Food & Wine editors said about us. They called Marx Foods a “remarkable specialty grocer” and me a “food scout extraordinaire.” Wow.

Thank you Kristin, thank you Food & Wine, and thank you everyone for listening to me gush.

Anatomy of a Photo Shoot 2

Once a month, we put on a big production of a photo shoot with our executive chef.  It has gotten to be a bigger production than the last time I wrote about it, but we still follow the same basic formula.  Those shoots are orderly and we reliably churn out about 15 impeccable recipes in a single day for our customers.

Lately we have also gotten into the habit of doing smaller shoots without a chef, which means a less formal, more basic, more chaotic day with much less reliable results.  In a shoot with a proper chef almost 100% of the dishes are on point.  Left to our own devices, we’re probably more like 75%.  Oh well.  We have fun with it.  Here’s some shots from a recent chef-less day spent exploring applications for panforte and vigna oro balsamic vinegar.  Turns out you can crisp up panforte like a cookie, which opens up a lot of possibilities.  We’ll be streaming ideas out on the blog shortly…


Unwrapping chocolate panforte for its closeup.


Preparing asparagus with vigna oro balsamic and parmigiano reggiano.

A close-up of the panforte-pancetta salad as we sprinkled cheese on it…because you know you wanted one.

Grilled peaches with mascarpone and balsamic vinegar for dessert!

 

 

BIG Product Tasting Coming Up!

It’s been a busy few months of Travel for Ryan in San Fransisco & Portland; and me in LA, New York, Chicago, Vancouver, and New Zealand. It’s hard to say whether the travel was for business or pleasure anymore because my life’s work and pleasure is increasingly merging into one. It’s a good thing that my wife loves good food too, because lately more than ever our trips have become gastronomic tours. Armed with Matthew’s (our food writer’s) custom food scene research, I drag our palates and ourselves on culinary romps of our country’s best restaurants, retail shops and farmer’s markets.

We have added about 150 new products to the store this year and probably have another 150 to go before we have our collection complete for our first brick and mortar store coming this Fall to Seattle. Rather than taste products as they came in as we normally do, we decided to make a little event of it. It’s turned into more of a private trade show for my staff and our guest tasters Baketard & Surly Gourmand. On Friday, we’ll mix some

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cocktails and attempt to taste a mountain of products to adjudicate whether they are worthy in our collection.

Friday’s Agenda (and still counting):
25 chocolates & sweet treats
15 jams/preserves/honey
14 mustards and savory spreads
7 Vinegars
7 cracker/bread products
3 spicy sauces
3 syrups
3 salts
4 oils

The 6th Marx Generation is Here!

I’m an uncle as of March 11th!  And the Marx family now has the 6th generation to groom for the family business.  That means that as soon as he can push a broom, that cute little dude is headed straight to the warehouse.  We are big fans of child labor in this family.  Lucky for him, our business has gotten a lot cleaner than the slaughterhouse that I grew up in.

Welcome Jaxson Monroe Marx.

Look at that cute little bugger … already at work at 2 months old.  Here he is practicing for the holiday party with some butt photocopying.

And there he is trying on Daddy’s (Keith’s) headset.  I’m sure he’ll be selling meat in no time.  Look how proud Keith is.  For some reason this picture makes me imagine Keith playing mama bird / baby bird with beef tartare very soon.

Based on his name, my prediction is that he’ll have the following attributes:

Jaxson.  The name Jaxson is so similar in spelling and sound to his uncle Justin (ahem, me) that he’s sure to be all of the wonderful things that you want in a man.  Haha, just kidding.  Sorry Keith, but with that name, he’ll probably be all of the things that you make fun of me for.

Monroe.  Monroe is his fun-loving grandfather’s first name.  Based on this middle name, we know that he will be a ball buster of epic proportions and a really cuddly grandfather.  Let me apologize in advance to his future younger siblings and congratulate his future grandkids.

Marx.  He’ll be a hard core carnivore.  And he’ll never lose his love of boobs.

Welcome little buddy.  We love you.  And we’ll put you to work real soon.  Now, will you just let Keith get a good night of sleep so he can focus on his work, damnit 😉

Blogger Taste Test Panel Needed

We’re expanding our inventory and have a ton of new samples to try (we mean it; there must be at least 50 100 items on our shelves waiting to be tasted!) We have everything from chocolate to pickles to hot sauce to walnut oil…but we’re going to need some help tasting it all.

We’d like to invite a blogger or two to taste some samples and help us choose which new products we should carry…and we’ll also pour you some tasty cocktails while we’re at it. We’ll shut down the office early on a Friday afternoon – we’re aiming for June 1 – and we’ll

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have our tasting party. Are you game?

Here’s how to play:

1. Bloggers need to be in the Seattle area to be considered.

2. If you’ve got step 1 down: articulate a flavor profile for an ingredient of your choice from the list provided below and post your thoughts in a comment on this blog post by Friday, 5/25 (my birthday) ;). You are free to choose more than one ingredient if you’re inspired to do so.

3. We’ll pick a couple local bloggers with the best flavor profiles to join our tasting party.

4. Come join the Marx Foods staff at our office on Friday, June 1 to sample the goods.

Choose at least 1 ingredient from the list below for your flavor profile:

Eggplant
Asparagus
Mango
Roasted Chicken
Tomatoes
Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese
Almonds
Fresh Thyme
Saffron
Brown Sugar
Shiitake Mushrooms
Peanut Butter
Soy Sauce

If you live in the Seattle area and you’re free on Friday, 6/1, hurry up & leave us your flavor profile comment to throw your hat in the tasting party ring.

Kobe Beef in the News

kobe-cow

A few customers asked us for our thoughts on this story in Forbes. Here you go:

It is important that people ask questions about their food. Period. End of Story. If more people made a habit of asking questions about what they eat, then our country would be a whole lot healthier. In that vein, it is important that people know that “Kobe Beef” is a term that is commonly used to denote eating qualities, not necessarily a geographical origination.

I’ve always regarded the term “kobe beef” to be similar in usage to brussel sprouts, Swiss cheese and Dijon mustard. It is a categorical designation, not a geographical one. We strive to accurately list the country or region of origin on our products. Our Kobe Beef has always been from Australia or the US and it has always been identified as such on each and every item page.

My personal opinion is that there is not a broad conspiracy among producers and chefs to defraud high-end diners, as accused in the story. Rather, this is the case of consumers, chefs and ranchers settling on a particular nomenclature over a period of decades for a term used to describe a category of product. The term “Kobe Beef” is surely not a brand that is owned or controlled by anyone. And, what is sold as “Kobe Beef” most certainly is different than the other products on the market – beef that has higher levels of marbling and fat (and therefore flavor) due to its genetics.

I do not think that users of the term are implying that it is “Beef from Kobe”. I still assume that most Americans don’t even know that Kobe is a city in Japan. Among those that do know, I am having a hard time imagining that they think their beef comes from a metropolis.

Reading this story on actual salmon fraud makes me think that there are probably a few restaurants out there who advertise Kobe Beef but use commodity beef instead. There are always a few bad apples just as there is an abundance of restaurateurs out there that are buying higher quality Kobe Beef at a higher cost and therefore passing that higher cost on to their customers while serving them better quality beef.

We need more consumers and journalists asking questions about food. Regardless of the author’s intentions or motivations, I commend him for igniting dialogue around this issue. However, I take strong issue with the author’s claim that this is “food’s biggest scam.” That statement may draw attention, but it is highly sensationalistic. Every food issue is important, but in the scheme of things, I personally find this nomenclature issue to be a non-issue. In fact, I wish that the author had used the significant journalistic power that he wields in order to uncover whatever actually is “food’s biggest scam” …because surely Kobe is not it.

I think that everyone’s attention is better served by focusing on issues that not only affect far more people, but that also affect people in more than a semantic way, like the 29 million pounds of antibiotics a year in livestock feed or the FDA’s acceptable levels of things like maggots, mold & rodent hairs in your food (hint: it’s not zero).

I am very curious to see where this dialogue leads us. Specifically, I ask that commenters share their opinions below. For the time being we are going to continue calling the product “kobe beef” and list the country of origin, just as we have for years. But, I am open to change.

Frankly, for my money, I’ll take New Zealand Grass-fed Beef any day over Kobe Beef.

 

3/14/14 Update: Since I wrote this original post, beef nomenclature has shifted. It is now our impression that “wagyu” is becoming the dominant word to describe “Kobe” beef produced in Australia or the US. I still stand by what I said above, but as a result of the shift in language we’ve recently renamed all our Kobe beef products to “Wagyu beef”.

Post Written by Justin Marx

I have a fetish

There are many kinds of virginity. Thank goodness that being married doesn’t preclude me from taking a particular kind of virginity. Men, women, children, seniors … whatever. When it comes to getting people to eat their first oyster, I am king. I have a fetish for taking people’s oyster virginity. I looooove it. I wish I have been keeping count, because I’d be somewhere around 100. Anyway, I had another happy victim today: Katie, our newest staff member.

She had one and then she had another. As a bonus, I talked Angela into her second oyster experience. And, Matt had another today too. We all had some beer and a couple oysters. It was fun. And, I will tell you with certainty that everybody is putting up less and less resistance to oysters. Don’t you feel bad for my staff? 😉 Can you imagine having to suffer through random breaks at work where your boss makes you eat oysters and drink beer?

While I love getting people to try their first oyster, I love eating oysters even more. We are adding another oyster variety to our store shortly: Shigoku / Kusshi Oysters. I am pretty pumped about shigokus. They have a deep cup and are very briny and delicious. We had some in the office today to photograph them for the store. And, I’ll never miss an opportunity to eat oysters with everybody at work!

What it’s like in a Slaughterhouse

I didn’t expect to have so much to say about touring a meat packing plant and slaughterhouse. After taking a walk down memory lane, describing what wasn’t there and offering an analogy, I just can’t shut up. Here, I try to explain what it was like to be in this New Zealand beef packing plant.

____________________________________________________________

Getting Geared Up: New Zealand is well known for the cleanliness of their slaughterhouses and the extended shelf-life that their meat has as a result of their ability to control bacteria and such. You can expect a post about hygiene over on the grass-fed beef blog. For now, I’ll just describe what I had to go through to gain entry. First, I had to fill out an affidavit that I did not have any gastrointestinal ailments (and there were 6 or 7 other checkboxes that I don’t remember). Then I had to put on a hair net, beard net, smock, pants and rubber boots. Think: surgeon’s outfit. And, just like a surgeon, I had to wash my hands extensively. Then I had to scrub my boots with soap and scrub brush, walk through a car-wash-for-boots and finally stepped in a solution of some kind. Whew. Not a germ on me.

The Sounds: The safety briefing is short. The only thing I remember being said was that when the buzzer goes off, the production line moves. Imagine sides of beef hanging from rails. When the buzzer sounds, the entire line shifts about 6 feet as the sides of beef move to the next station. We follow the production manager in and before I have a chance to adjust to the rhythm of the beeps, I hear the buzzer and realize that I am standing in the path of the line. Adrenaline pumps. I jump forward to avoid being slammed by a side of beef. Our guide, the plant manager, turns around with an approving look. I am very agile person and I felt as if I had dodged a bullet. Not hard to imagine that people have been slammed before. I later learn that a Japanese guy once got smashed by a side of beef.

In addition to the buzzer, most of what I hear is saws, clips, hydraulics, high-pressure hoses and knives being sharpened. This place is more notable for what you don’t hear.

The Sights: Imagine a factory that is designed to disassemble instead of assemble. And, then imagine a FedEx sort facility with boxes and bags and chutes and conveyors moving in every direction.

What you see is an army of butchers. What you don’t see is the team of engineers and technicians that must be required to run this technologically sophisticated place. People don’t move product. They mostly stay in their station and work on their very specific job. Conveyors and chutes move product this way and that. There are conveyors overhead, at knee level, chutes that take product from one conveyor to the next, even a conveyor that moves the final boxed products through a hole in the ceiling and to another place.

Chutes, chutes, chutes. Tongues go in this one. Hides disappear through that one. Brains in this one. Guts down this one. Trim meat in that one. Nothing goes to waste. Everything has a use, right down to the aorta, which I think I heard is a Chinese delicacy or something.

The butchers themselves wear metal chainmail gloves. Some just wield knives, while others multitask between a knife they quickly pull out of their scabbard to cut a muscle, then deftly drop it back in their scabbard and to grab a giant handheld saw that is hanging from the ceiling by a wire and it looks like a giant chainsaw except that it is a bandsaw like your local butcher shop. Whew. More men than women, all dressed in whites and there is hardly any blood on their whites. They are wearing white rubber boots and white hats. Their noise cancelling headphones have antennas. I forgot to ask whether that is for music or if they are broadcasting information or the beeps of the moving production line.

The butchers each have their own specific job and appeared to all be working expeditiously. On a break, I observed a few butchers at a knife sharpening station and they were sharpening their knives with the attentiveness of an artist making a sculpture. It seemed strangely meditative.

The machines are epic. Imagine giant hydraulic scissors that lop off leg bones, giant hand-held bone saws that cut right down the spine to split the carcass. Imagine a 5 foot diameter roller that the hide is attached to. Then the roller spins and pulls the hide right off the animal as workers on either side stand on a platform that lowers with the hide as the pair of workers use a rotary saw to help shave the hide away from the carcass.

White walls and conveyor belts. Concrete Floors. Stainless steel machines and tables.

The sanitation is impressive. There’s hardly any blood. The floor is clean. The conveyors are clean. The butchers are clean.

The technology is impressive. Not like the old days where the packing line could only handle one cut at a time, this facility handled every single cut at once. On top of that, they appeared to be handling multiple breeds, multiple brands and were labeling product for multiple destination countries and the specific requirements that go with each export country. The technical complexity is mind bending.

Even though I have been there and done that … visiting a meatpacking plant for the first time in 20 years was an epic experience. More than anything, I was blown away by how much things have changed and by how impressively advanced New Zealand facilities are.

Post Written by Justin Marx

Cute LOL stuff – Our office pack is always good for it

Did I mention that our office pack is a riot? While they get plenty of treats around here, they are also not immune to my taunts. It was way too funny when I teased them with this Grass-fed Ribeye. They certainly ended up getting some scraps after I sliced it up and sampled for our staff, but they had to wait a bit after this photo.

The humans work hard around here, but I don’t know if anyone ever gets as serious as these dogs when they want raw meat. So cute and funny. Look at those faces. Raw meat is serious business.

Pack Wants Grassfed Beef!

New Zealand Cattle & Ranches are Strikingly Beautiful

The New Zealand countryside is pastoral and beautiful. The animals are clean, calm and healthy. Never before have I looked at a herd of cattle and been struck by the beauty. Beauty in the aesthetic, but also in the simplicity. Of course, livestock management is remarkably complex and above my head, but fundamentally it is simple: Grass grows abundantly in New Zealand. Cattle graze it and in the process their hooves aerate the soil and their excrement fertilizes the grass. Here are a few pics of New Zealand Grass-fed Beef Cattle.

Eaters of Honor

In the last few years, we have developed about 700 recipes, like this. Up until recently, we held the photoshoots at my house. My lucky neighbors would come over in the afternoon and help us make sure that no food went to waste.

When we moved into an office with a kitchen, photoshoots moved there … and a lightbulb went off. Instead of a monthly smorgasbord for my neighbors, why not spread the love around and pick a person or two to invite as our eater of honor. What a great way to thank those that have helped us and also a great opportunity to get to know people better.

So, we started a tradition of having eaters of honor. At each shoot, we cook and photograph 10-15 dishes. We prep all morning and then around midday the dishes start coming out fast and furious. Our eaters of honor are invited to come park themselves in our lounge usually from 1-5 PM, just when the parade of dishes come off the stove. We stuff them full of amazing food, keep their glass full of whatever drinks they fancy and they just hang out with us for the afternoon. Good times.

Eaters of Honor Alumni:

Tom Gagne & Rick | October 2011 | Beef, Beef, Beef & Alba Truffles
Tom & Rick worked tirelessly to build out our amazing new office. They were the first eaters of honor because our office would no way be as cool as it is, if they hadn’t done such an amazing job.  Thanks guys!

Jenny & Jenny | December 2011 | Dungeness, Halibut, Lobster & Geoduck
I invited the Jennys as a thanks for the good work that they do in our community by organizing the Will Bake For Food bake sale. Plus, it was a great opportunity to get better acquainted with these two lovely ladies.

Hsiao-Ching Chou & her guest, Marc | January 2012 | Grass-fed Beef & Pantry Panoply
Hsiao-Ching was our PR consultant for a very short period before she stopped working with clients to pursue another great opportunity, but from the first moment she taught me so much about how to develop long-term relationships with journalists and editors.  Grateful, I am.

Dr. Josh Leahy & Guest | February 2012 | Poultry, Poultry & More Poultry
Dr. Josh is an exceptional acupunturist, naturopath, and a fellow Sounders fan and sailing enthusiast. But he’s an Eater of Honor because of the great work that he is doing to bring a truly integrative model of health care into this world, along with my wife (Tara Shelby). Thanks, Josh, for your great work and for your steadfast support and counsel to my valentine.

Sharon Clark & Guest | April 2012 | Chef’s Choice
Awerks is an architecture firm run by Jeff Clark along with his wife Sharon.  Jeff has been fantastically generous with his time and patience as we work on plans for something special.  In addition, Sharon was one of Marx Foods’ earliest fans.  She competed in our first recipe contests and has been a constant voice of support.  Plus, she makes all kinds of tasty pickled stuff and shares it with me.  So, it’s time to start repaying a whole lot of favors!  Jeff will be missed this time around, but we’ll figure out how to get him in here for some tastings…

Chris Tanghe | February 2013 | Duck, Kurobuta & Mangalitsa Pork, etc
Chris was our executive chef & co-sommelier for years before real life intervened.  He’s responsible for a huge percentage of the recipes on the blog (including several of our all-time favorites).  We still keep in touch and are hoping to work with him on a planned wine program.  To say thank you we invited him to take a turn on the other side of the stove.

Hsiao-Ching Chou |  March 2013 | Silere Alpine Origin Merino
Yes, this is the second time Hsiao-Ching has been our eater of honor.  Yes, she deserves it – when it comes to PR, she’s just that good – her initial insights were gifts that keep on giving.  Besides, I wanted to get her thoughts on a new meat line we’re bringing in – Silere Alpine Origin Merino.  It’s a leaner, more elegant alternative to conventional lamb.  Nothing like a 10+ course meal of it to get a person acquainted…

Becca Sheedy | November 2013 | Beef, Merino Lamb, Alba Truffles & More!
Becca is a longtime friend with a spectacular green thumb.  She comes in weekly to keep the many plants in our office healthy & happy.  She’s also responsible for the overhanging plants and awesome living wall in our retail store.  It seems like we get compliments on her work weekly.  Becca has helped us for so long, and her contributions are so important to the look and feel of our office & store, that it seemed fitting to invite her to our Alba truffle photo shoot as Eater of Honor.  Check out this post for photos of Becca & her “assistants” in action!

Fancy Food Show – A Marx Foods Perk

A post by Ryan, our fabulously creative and versatile design director

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Before joining Marx Foods I worked for one of Washington State’s largest privately owned companies. One of those places that is run by a strict set of rules and guidelines, where your job is set in stone, and there are no variations allowed. With that background in mind I’ve come to fully appreciate the perks of working at Marx Foods. One of those perks is that everyone, no matter their specialty, gets to learn a fair amount of knowledge of how every bit of the business works which is how I managed to get into the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco a couple weekends back.

I’m an artist, first and foremost. I’m part of the team who takes the photos, who designs and codes the webstore and blogs. Color options, check, I can help with that. But thanks to some handy unofficial office policies I’ve also gotten a decent taste, so to say, of what makes a good product for our store. For the most part, everyone here has good taste when it comes to our products because it’s important to believe in the products we carry. So, when a few months back, Justin asked if I’d be up for joining him at the Fancy Food Show in San Francisco I jumped at a “work” weekend. It’s a pretty good office perk I have to admit. As a dad of a 4yr old any vacation/trip that didn’t include the words “kid friendly” is welcome. But as things got closer Justin got called to a weeklong trip to New Zealand for our great new grass-fed beef line during the same week of the show, and of course who was he to turn down New Zealand in their summer when our weather report was calling for record amounts of snow. I got a quick crash course on the business end of things by daily pop quizzes and sent on my way.

The first day of the trip was for me to get down there early and to explore what the town had to offer to the food scene, as part of our research as we develop our retail store. Seattle is pretty respectable on the food front but it never hurts to check out new locations, see what’s going on in other places. After 10+ miles on foot across town from small food retailers to the Ferry Terminal, I retired to dinner at the Chef’s table at SPQR and took notes for plating techniques for our next photo shoot followed by early to bed. Not a bad first day. Oh, and what a first day as my fair skinned Norwegian heritage came out as a minor sunburn, in January…

The next day the show began. I knew that this was one of the biggest places for likeminded food industry people but I was overwhelmed. “80,000 specialty foods and beverages from 1,300 exhibitors spanning 35+ countries” spread out over both the north and south halls of the Moscone Center.

Now again, I’m a designer/photographer, all day behind three computer monitors or out in the field with a camera, which made the first day that much more overwhelming. Olive oils, vinegars, crackers, chocolates, cheese, teas, and just about any other specialty food item you can name. Major food producing countries had their own mini cities. Rows and rows built up with towering displays, and sectioned off rooms for business dealings. Just about every food brand you find in your local big box grocer had a presence as well. My job was to find that rare quality product, among the 80,000, that was both as exceptional in quality and a good fit for our very curated store. I had a small mental list of categories that we needed to expand, as well as an open mind for the occasional product that just looked too delicious to pass up. It took almost the entire day to take it all in, take notes and find my way to The Slanted Door where I sat and had a lively discussion with a chef over something more substantial. Almost forgetting I was half way through the show and had yet to actually find a specific product or three to take home. Oh my, a little bit of butterflies that night. I had to produce if I hoped to be offered the job again.

But the second day was a lot less stressful. I had seen it all, I had a plan. I knew what I wanted to bring back to the office. And it was a lot more fun. The pressure was definitely off once it became known I wasn’t in charge of buying the product, only recommending them. I could really just pursue and enjoy the many fine foods without needing to deal with sales pitches. My attention could be on what I was tasting, not what I was hearing. Cheeses after cheeses, oils and vinegars, chocolate, sauces, occasionally the bite of something that was just needed to cleanse the palate between cups of straight olive oil. Occasionally there was a product that just tasted horrible, and once in a while there was a product I’d be happy to serve my guests. Then a quick BART ride back to the airport for a late night flight home, trading the sunburns of California to the freezing snow/rain of Seattle in January.

So, thanks to Marx Foods’s great policies, this designer got to travel to a sunny climate in the middle of winter and eat better than I will again for quite a while, and got paid to do it. Now I just have to figure out how to convince Justin that its essential that I get to New Zealand.